Our Vacation in Cefalù

Our vacation was wonderful. Idyllic, really. It's the first vacation that I've had that had virtually no scheduled time, and we spent the days doing as we liked, with no real plans or itineraries. I've never understood the value of spending several lazy, unstructured days at a beach, but I think I might have had an epiphany. Spending five days at a beach town is the perfect family vacation when you have a toddler.

Travel to and from Cefalù was fairly easy. We flew from Rome into Palermo, then took a train to the town. Active travel time was only about three hours, although there was some waiting-around time, too. Even so, the day we arrived we had plenty of time to check into our lovely apartment that we had reserved through airbnb, and explore the town.

Indigo was immediately and totally enthralled with the sea. This was her first

Her first look

time at the beach, actually, and she could not get enough of it. She was much braver than I had anticipated, and went immediately to water's edge and cautiously stuck some toes in. She then screamed, half in shock from the cold and half in delight, ran back up to dry sand, and did it again. And again. And again. The entire time she yelled, rapturously, "The sea! The sea, Mama! Come in the sea!" And I did.

So begins my child's deep love for beach bum life. I'm going to have to take her to my father's house extra-often this summer, so that we can go to the beach out there.

We developed a leisurely routine, which involved some light outings in the mornings: obtaining un cornetto (croissant) or una ciambella (a donut) or other various yumminess; playing around the Piazza Duomo, taking a walk around the city center, or letting Indigo burn off energy at a nearby playground. Then we'd break for lunch and Indigo's nap (when we would also nap, or take turns walking around. After Indigo woke up, we'd go go the beach for a few hours, then get gelato, relax, and eventually get cleaned up and go out to dinner. After Indigo was asleep Josh and I took turns going out to our hosts' nephew's bar, where we could use the wifi for free.

After the beach, the Duomo was Indigo's favorite place to visit. She called it "the castle" and declared herself its Queen. We spent long stretches of time at the top of the Duomo's steps, where she capered and danced to the amusement of onlookers.

One of the nicest things about Cefalù is the warmth and friendliness of its locals. People greeted us constantly. They didn't know us; they were just being nice. Italians, of course, adore children, and Indigo often gets a lot of attention even here in Rome. But in a small town where people are more relaxed and have more of that small-town friendliness, their love of children was even more apparent. We went to a little market our first day in town, and every day afterwards the shopkeeper would wave to us. People gave Indigo candy and oranges. One older gentlemen made a Pinocchio puppet dance for her. Waitstaff doted on her. She got a casual, "Ciao, bionda," ("hi, blondie") a few times. In Rome there are some blondes, but in Sicily, not so much. We befriended a family on top of the Duomo steps one night (and one of the women helped save Indigo from a nasty tumble down the steps), and played Ring Around the Rosy - in both English and Italian - with their two kids. It was all just wonderfully, impossibly sweet.

We ate a lot of seafood. At least, Josh and I did. And lots of baked goods. I even managed to eat an entire piece of marzipan, although it took me the better part of the day to do it. It was so sweet! Speaking of sweets, they don't scrimp on the sugar in Sicily. Do you know, that it's typical for them to eat brioche or a cornetto filled with gelato for breakfast?! Yes. Sicilian children eat ice cream for breakfast. At least sometimes. It's a little nauseating. But also so good.

We had originally planned on taking a few day trips, or maybe to hike up La Rocca (the big rock in the middle of the town), but decided to be lazy and hang out on the beach instead. The weather was fairly warm, although mostly overcast, which made playing in the sea and sand pleasant for me, as I don't tolerate heat well.

La Rocca rising up behind the beach

The one morning trip we did take was a leisurely stroll along the sea and around La Rocca to the weekly market. The market was lively and clearly a staple of small-town Sicilian life, but my favorite part was the walk itself, and the views we saw on the way. In particular, there were a lovely mysterious bunch of ruins jutting out of a rocky outcropping. What were they? we wondered.

Usually by the time a vacation winds to a close, I'm ready to return home. Not this time, though. I could have happily stayed for a few more days. Our last day was perfect, and I'll never forget Indigo's delighted squeals as we chased a tiny fish through shin-deep water, or of her pride in being able to finally slurp her spaghetti noodle at dinner, sucking it in her mouth in one neat movement. Or of Josh's face and body, looking utterly relaxed and happy for the first time in a long, long time.

It was the perfect vacation, and I feel renewed. Refreshed. And ready to take on these last six weeks here in Rome.

Let me share a few more of our photos:

It's Springing!

Spring has been out in full force for a couple weeks here in Rome. I meant to post about the budding loveliness a while ago, but one thing or another has kept me procrastinating. Just as well - waiting means that I have lovely photos of the wisteria that is blooming all over the Academy and Monteverde. I don't recall seeing wisteria bloom in any places I've lived previously - I'm sure that it exists, somewhere, but it's just not a plant that I've had much first-hand experience with. I am completely smitten. It's beautiful, it's romantic, it's fragrant - I just want to stand underneath the falling blossoms and inhale.

They are the latest of the lot; we've been seeing flowers on all the trees for a few weeks, and now the petals are beginning to slowly drift to the ground. Every day on the way to school Indigo asks, "What happened, Mama?" while pointing to a mass of fluffy pink on the cobblestone sidewalks. I'm amazed when I think that she probably doesn't remember her past two Springs. This may be her real first awareness of flowering trees, and of tiny baby plants poking up through the earth.

With the arrival of Spring, we're eating a lot of new peas and fava beans and asparagus. Some of the kitchen staff have begun to regularly sit outdoors in the afternoons, shucking peas and beans, and Indigo loves to help them. They are a gracious, friendly bunch. I dare say that we are actually helpful (me more than Indigo - she stuffs more fresh peas into her mouth than she puts in the bowl), so they are probably happy to have the help and conversation. Indigo loves helping so much that I'm thinking that when we return home, I'll look for a local farm that might welcome volunteers for an hour or so on the weekends. Why not? I'd love for Indigo to have the opportunity to learn more about food, and feel some pride in helping to make it. Speaking of gardening, and growing things, here is an image of part of the amazing Bass Garden, where some herbs and vegetables are grown.

The arrival of warmer weather has meant that we've gotten to spend a lot more time outdoors. I hear that the nightlife is back, and there are throngs crowding the streets in Trastevere. I have yet to verify this for myself, but I can believe it! The tourists are starting to crowd the daytime streets as well, and all of the "seasonal" businesses have begun to re-open. Last weekend we took a trip with another family here to an animal farm in Ostia. It was fantastic. It was a great opportunity for kids to see and interact and learn about a variety of domestic animals. In the center of the farm was a petting area, and some of the baby goats, sheep, rabbits and ducks were so small that they could slip out of their enclosures, and come right up to us for some food or a cuddle.

The biggest thing we're looking forward to this Spring is our trip to Sicily! We leave on Wednesday (in two days!!) and will be staying in Cefalu, which happens to be Josh's favorite place in the world. And soon to be mine? We'll find out!